New York neighborhood a mix of tradition, tourism, great food
During Chinatown’s Autumn Moon Festival, the signs for mooncakes crowd every storefront window from Mott Street to the Bowery.
Mooncakes flavored with green tea, oolong tea, mango, pineapple, roasted espresso, dried scallops, shark’s fin - pretty much anything. There’s even a sparrow bird’s-nest mooncake flavored with coconut cream. The dense, round pastries represent full moons and connect Asian-Americans to their past.
But to many, the mooncake tradition in mid-September is really more about the decorative tin than the four cakes it contains, with each cake top imprinted with the bakery’s logo in Chinese.
Think of it as the Asian version of the Christmas fruitcake. It’s one of those traditions that no one wants to mess with. Just go along to get along, and hopefully, get a pretty tin.
The Autumn Moon Festival began as a celebration to mark the overthrow of the Mongols at the end of the Yuan Dynasty (A.D. 1279-1368 ) in China. As the story goes, the rebels passed each other secret messages with a plan of attack hidden inside round cakes.
On the 15th day of the eighth moon - what would later become known as the first Autumn Moon Festival - the rebels succeeded in attacking and overthrowing the government. The event triggered the start of the Ming Dynasty and the tradition of giving round cakes - without the messages - to loved ones.
Even the Haagen-Dazs here has mooncake. It’s vanilla ice cream, covered in chocolate and with an orange sorbet “yolk” center, instead of the traditional egg yolk, lotus-seed paste and lard. But it’s only available at the Chinatown store.
At this year’s festival, held Sept. 18, Mott Street between Bayard and Canal streets was blocked off for the celebration. Tourists and the locals who have lived in Chinatown their entire lives spent the warm, sunny, Sunday afternoon watching the traditional lion and dragon dances alongside “Asian-Britpop” band Johnny Hi-Fi.
But it was anything but a culture clash.
The streets may be crowded with names such as Hing Tai Co., Tasty Dumpling and Happy General Store, but you’ve got to remember this is the largest Chinese community in America. And there’s plenty of room for the trendy bubble tea shops (sweet tea with tapioca “bubbles") to mix with the traditional teahouses.



